Jumping Spider Care
This page provides information and advice on how to care for and keep your spider happy and healthy.
Housing
Feeding
When my baby spiders disperse from their nest, they generally stay together until they are around the L4 stage, then they are separated into 25ml tubs where they remain until they are ready for their new homes. All of my spiders are L5 or above when they leave me, at which time they are ready to move into a smoothie cup (starter enclosure). This will be suitable until the sub-adult stage(depending on species & individual). I use 2 homes for my adults: Mantis Den small, and medium enclosures. Larger spiders get the medium enclosures. There are a few other enclosures I use, and like, but Mantis Den is what I'd recommend.
No matter what enclosure you choose, you must ensure that there is enough ventilation, and that the enclosure isn't top-opening as they build their web hammocks high in the enclosure and opening the top would destroy the webs.
Your spider will require a hide of some kind (cocoon/3d-printed hide), some foliage to provide security, and some substrate (for aesthetics and humidity, as well as cushioning in case of a fall). I like to make enclosures as natural as possible. I love to use live plants and real moss.
You don't need a water dish of any kind; just mist the side of the enclosure every day to provide drinking water. Ensure that the mist is fine, as small spiders can drown in large water droplets.
Jumping spiders are easy to feed. Fruit flies are the best option for small spiders. Babies start with melanogaster, then move up to hydei. Larger spiders (usually L6+) can move onto greenbottle flies and these are a favourite with all of my spiders! Bluebottles can be used, but will be too big for some spiders, and can be intimidating to some.
Crickets can be fed (smaller sized ones), but be aware that they can bite, and keeping them alive can be challenging. They can be smelly, and must not be left uneaten with jumping spiders. Small locusts are a safer option, but they can be expensive if you have a lot of spiders.
Mealworms are an option, but may need their heads crushing before feeding, and cutting in half for smaller spiders. They have a tough outer layer that may not be suitable for smaller spiders.
Waxworms are suitable, but have a high fat content and are a large meal!
Jumping spiders should be fed based on their abdomen size, as shown below:
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Humidity
Jumping spiders need to be kept fairly humid, with optimum levels being 60-80%. The best way to maintain the required humidity level is to use a good layer of substrate, and sphagnum moss, and keep it damp. A daily misting of the enclosure sides will help to keep the level up too. Never directly spray a spider.
Lighting
Jumping spiders require bright lighting, on a 12 hour on/off cycle. The best way to do this is to use an LED lamp, plugged into a smart plug/or timer. Lamps that produce heat aren't suitable.
If you have a larger collection, you can use LED strip lighting, which is great for use with shelving units.
Heating
Phidippus regius spiders require temperatures of at least 22 degrees celsius. The temperature must not drop below this. Optimum temperature is 26 degrees celsius. This can be achieved by placing a heat mat (for reptiles) behind (NOT UNDER) the enclosure, plugged into a thermostat. Use a reptile thermometer to measure the temperature and ensure it stays constant. Recommended heat mats and thermostats are Prorep, Habistat, and Microclimate. Avoid heat mats that have a 'built in' thermostat. If keeping many spiders, you can heat a vivarium to the required temperature, or even heat a room using an oil radiator.
Some species of jumping spider require higher temperatures, the above information is relevant to Phidippus species only.
Moulting
Jumping spiders hatch from their eggs and are first instar (L1). Before they disperse from the nest, they moult again, and are then second instar (L2). They will moult several times before they become adult, then won't moult again. Each moult takes longer than the last, the final couple of moults can take several weeks to complete.
When spiders are preparing to moult, they need to be well hydrated, as they use moisture throughout the process. They will very likely refrain from eating for at least a few days before, possibly more. A thick web will be built, and the spider will tuck itself away until moulting is complete, and the exoskelton has hardened. Continue to mist and water the enclosure as usual, but do not put any food into the enclosure until moulting is complete, and the spider has left the moulting webbing. Jumping spiders can completely change how they look after a moult, and can emerge looking like a different spider. This is why you shouldn't buy a baby based on colour alone!